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Tech Tips submitted by members of The Mile High Model T Ford Club

(These tech tips are for personal use only, they may not be printed for resale or distribution)

More Tech Tips to be posted soon

Head gaskets- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Ron’s gasket seminar reminded me of an incident many years ago. A fellow brought his 1915
to my shop because he could not get it to run. It had been in an Ogallala, Nebraska restoration
shop. They had done a super job restoring the car but could not get it to run. I checked all the
usual suspects like gas getting to the carb and spark to the spark plugs and timing. At the time
I didn’t have anyone working for me so it all took a lot of time. Finally out of desperation I
checked the compression and guess what — ZERO! I pulled the head and guess what.
At that time a group of us was using CADILLAC intake valves in our T’s. The larger valve
heads really help pep a T up. With the head off you could easy see the problem of why the
Ogallala Shop and the owner could not start the T. To install a valve with a big valve head like a
Cadillac valve you must MODIFY THE HEAD GASKET. The valves were all sitting on top of the head gasket. Some one forgot to change the gasket valve clearance on the gasket. You have to fold the rim around the valve clearance back, take a very sharp blade and cut the clearance back, THEN REFOLD the rim. In this motor, as soon as they tried to crank the motor, every valve forced their head up past the head gasket and as soon as the valves started back down they could not get past the gasket.

Axel Seals- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Dave Huson hint from 2002, on axel seals. This was posted on the Lone Star T’s web site:

Q: I am trying to figure out how to replace the inner seals ( behind the bearings) on my 26
coupe,the front came out ok and the bearing even though it hasn't been greased in years.
Any ideas? Thanks

Dave: When you replace your seals DON'T use the type with the spring steel fingers. If you get
them in wrong they can cut an axle in half real fast. If you have a 26/27 you will have the
spring steal finger type and you must pull your bearing race out to remove them.

Throw the steel finger grease seals as far as you can and get some other type. The suppliers are
selling one with neoprene and another one is the old felt that was used in original T times. If you
use the felt put in at least 2 and better three on each side

Transmissions - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

I just finished tearing two more Transmissions Down and as usual at least one of the reverse drums was cracked. Over and Over I find the reverse drums are cracked and therefore unrepairable and not useable. The reason that so many reverse drums are cracked is that so many are using the reverse drum as a brake. Can you imagine what a jerk the reverse drum gets when some one is moving forward and slams the transmission in reverse. I saw some idiot in the forum a while back telling new T owners to alternate using the brake and reverse drum when going down hill. Can you imagine using that method driving down from the top of Trail Ridge down to Estes and what that would do to the transmission. It makes me cringe when I see that kind of advise on the forum especially with reverse drums costing as high as $748.00 in the catalogs.

Welcome back Cotter pin! - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Any one that works on many Ts soon learns that the holes drilled through bolts are not always SQUARE !!! with the slots in the nuts. The worst I find is the holes in the rear axle are not
always square. No matter how close you center the hole in the bolt with the slot in the nut the hole in the other side of the nut is off. It happened again to me on one of the bolts in the front motor mount just yesterday. Again no matter how well I lined up the nut on one side the other side was completely off and I could not get the cotter pin all the way through. I found long ago
that the only solution to that is to use your side grinder to GRIND OFF one side of the slot on the nut but not make the slot any deeper. Grinding off one side of the slot will then line the hole and the slots on the nut. This in no way will weaken the nut if you are careful and don't grind the slot in the nut any deeper.

Clutch Spring - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

One overlooked thing when rebuilding a Transmission is the large spring in the back of the clutch disk. If your clutch spring is weak your clutch disks will slip and put you in neutral when starting out. A good example is about a week ago I had 10 springs on my spring checker. Most of the springs that you will check have been compressed for 100 years which means many, many springs are weak. The manuals call for 90 pounds, however with modern transmission disks that is NOT ENOUGH. your clutch will slip. Since I will only use Watts Clutches I try to find 110 lbs springs. I will keep springs that are 90 lbs for those that still use the all steel disks. When I checked the 10 springs the other day I ended up throwing 5 in the scrap iron pile. If you don't have a spring checker or know someone that does have one you can check them another way. Before I bought my spring checker I used to use a bathroom scale. I cut a 2 inch square block of wood and put it beside the spring on the scale. I then compressed the spring to the same height as the block of wood and read the scale. Remember you have to zero your scale with the wood and spring on it or you will get a false reading. If you have any doubts about your results or just want to double check your spring, bring it up and I will check it for you.

Placement of the Gas Line Shutoff - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

I see many install a gas line ELBOW shut off directly into the carburetor. This is silly and should NOT be done because if for any reason you want to remove the carburetor you will have to climb under the car to shut the gas off. It is much better to install an inline shut off about ONE INCH behind the carburetor.

This would be the wrong way

Tight Wrist Pin- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

I was helping a new to T person with a 26 touring and a 27 roadster. I showed him how to line up the wrist pin notch but neglected to show him how tight a wrist pin should be. (This is important! If the wrist pin is too tight it will bang the piston against the wall and can crack it!)

He finished putting his motor together and discovered it was very tight so that when cranking it would catch (too loose then too tight) . I went over the usual things: too tight rod caps, too tight main caps and too tight pistons. He said
that the pistons went into their holes really easy and he had the nuts loosened on the rods and mains. He thought that he didn't have enough clearance on the piston rings so he pulled the pistons and found his problem. The wrist pins
were so tight they would have to have been driven in with a hammer.

NOTE; I have never bought a new set of pistons that I didn't have a least one pin that is way too TIGHT. You must hone your pistons. Hone them until you can take a piston and slap it in your cupped hand until the PIN DROPS OUT. If the pin won't drop out hone it some more. I often hear guys say you can test the tightness of wrist pins by holding the pistons horizontally and see if the con rods drops down. This is horse manure—you cannot tell that way!!!!!

Installing Spring Hanger Bars- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Caution! When installing spring hanger bars on the rear springs on a 26 or 27 touring or sedan you will need the bars that are 1/2 as thick as the other 26/27 models and earlier models. This is because you have the spare tire carrier (goose neck) between the bar and the springs. If you don't have the thin bar you CAN'T SCREW THE NUT ALL THE WAY UP and the cotter keys cannot be installed. This could result in the nuts falling off and releasing the clips.

Cotter Pins: Don’t leave home without them!

Brake Cam Repair Sleeves- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

You often find emergency brake cams worn so you cannot spread the brake shoes. An easy fix is to cut a 1/2" conduit 7/8" long. Flatten the conduit then drive it over the cam shaft. Your brake shoes will the spread even further apart than when the cam shaft was new. Ford dealers used to sell these conduits so sometimes you can find some already to mount at swap meets.

Installing Heads- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Always before installing your heads, run a bottoming tap down the bolt hole in the block then blow it out with air. Then put your head on the black, WITHOUT A HEAD GASKET. Run all your head bolts down. If even one bolt does not go ALL THE WAY DOWN, you should grind that amount off the end of the bolt. If even only one bolt does not go all the way down I grind all the bolts down that much so some day in the future if I take the head off I won't get the bolts mixed up. Remember if a head bolt does not go all the way down against the head then you are not putting any pressure on the head gasket and can start a leak at that spot.
Now after doing all that you can go ahead and put your head on the block with the head gasket in place.

Tightening The Oil Pan - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Years ago when I first working on Ts I was fortunate in finding a K.R. Wilson pan jig. I found that most pans are bent in some place. One of the most frequent bends is the middle. They are bent like an inverted canoe. In other words, the center of the pan is much higher than the ends. This allows for oil leakage from both ends of the pan. I firmly believe that what causes the pan to become bent like that is from guys starting to tighten the bolts on the pan at the MIDDLE. This causes the pan to bend because of the crankshaft oil gasket in front. I always start the bolts from the far ends and work toward the middle. The pans seem to stay much straighter by doing the ends first and the middle last.

Brake Handle and Pawl- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

I had a person new to Ts at my place today. I was helping him rebuild a transmission. We went to town for coffee in one of my 12s. One the way back we stopped for gas. When we got through gassing up and were getting ready to go he was standing on the right side of the 12. I asked him to pull the emergency brake back. He reached in and was pulling the hand brake back with out releasing the pawl. I yelled at him to stop but it was
too late. He had pulled the pawl almost all the way over the ratchet. Man was I unhappy. I told him what damage he was doing. I explained to him that not only was he destroying the pawl but also wearing the teeth on the ratchet. A while back some Einstein was on the forum explaining that he had been pulling the brake handle back for years with out releasing the pawl. He said he liked the sound it made and it gave him a Model T experience! Since he had totally destroyed his pawl and ratchet, the hand brake would no longer hold the car. If he hand cranked his car and it pinned him to the wall for lack of brakes, I wondered if he thought that would also be a model T experience??


Rim Coating - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

As most of you know original rims were coated with a grey finish. Most rims have long since lost most or all of the coating. For a long time I have been having all my rims powder coated. It not only looks like the original coating but lasts a long time. Also when you mount your tires on the rim you do not scratch the rim. My powder
coater uses Cardinal 6402-96264ETI Beige Semi Gloss - High solids Polyurethane. I defy anyone to compare this powder coating to an original and tell me which one is which..

Carburetor Bolts - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Its not always easy to get a socket on the bolts that hold the carburetor to the intake manifold,
especially if your motor has a generator in the way. I have started taking the end of two bolts
that hold the carburetor to the manifold and grinding the end of the bolts down from 9/16” to
1/2”. That way I can slip a socket over the end of the bolt, hold the nut on the other end with an
open end wrench. I have also ground the sides of the end of a cheap open end wrench. That way I
can get the open end of the wrench between the carburetor and the nut.

Making A Bolt Holder Tool - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Back in the Model T Days the garages had a handy tool to hold bolts while removing the nuts on the six bolts that hold a model T body to the frame. I was fortunate enough to find one. I believe it was a KR Wilson Tool. About a month ago I was getting ready to lift a touring body off it’s frame. When I went to get the frame bolt
tool in its regular place it was gone. I looked all over and finally got the body off by using other tools but it was more work. Finally I got to thinking that I could make a tool like the KRW tool. I took a 11/16” combination wrench and bent the handle 90 degrees. I then cut of the open end. Low and behold it works as good as the original wrench. All you need to do is set it on the frame, place the closed end over the end of the nut and use a ratchet on the other end. The wrench can’t move because one end is hanging down over the frame. Try it you will like it, it saves a lot of time and you don’t have to use one hand to hold a wrench thus freeing both hands to
work the bolt. Again it saves a lot of time and effort.

Oil Filter Hole - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Some times a T motor will blow oil out the filler hole. I am not sure what causes this, but would guess poor or worn out piston rings. When I bought my Montana 500 race car, it had been raced in 500 races in California, Colorado and Montana. I completely tore it apart including installing my own motor and light weight 26
frame. One thing that I did keep was a five inch pipe inserted into the oil filler hole with the normal cap on top. I thought that since the race cars are doing in excess of 70 MPH down hills maybe I would need it. If anyone is having trouble blowing out oil from the filler hole all you need to do until you can correct the problem is cut
about four or five inches of tail pipe stick it in the oil filler hole and put your cap on top. It works.

By the way, the top three car motors are torn down after each race. Another race driver can challenge anything on your racer. I was challenged because my head lights were not original and would be more aero dynamic. The challenge was not allowed, and I was able to race. Another time I was caught with a butterfly shaft filed flat
which allowed more air to enter the carb. I was told I would not be allowed to race again until that was corrected.

Tightening Wrist Pins - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

There are many reasons for a knock in a T motor. One that is seldom considered is a too TIGHT wrist pin. I always find at least one pin in a new set of pistons that has a wrist pin that is too tight. I always have to ream at least one wrist pin hole and sometimes more.

When you receive a new set of pistons, you should slap each piston in the palm of your hand . If the wrist pin does not come out then it is TOO TIGHT and will cause the skirt of the bottom of the piston to slap the wall each time it goes around. Another way to test the tightness of a wrist pin is to put the ends of your fingers on the ends of the wrist pin and see if you can move the wrist pin. If you can not move the wrist pin then its TOO TIGHT. If you find one or more of your wrist pins are too tight bring it to my shop. I will put it on my fixture and ream it for you.

NOTE: Old wives tales say that to check for tightness hold the piston and con rod horizontal and see if the con rod drops. Thatís horse manure the con rod can drop and still have a wrist pin that is too tight. Donít test it that way.

How To Balance Con Rods- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

The other day I was showing a friend how to balance Con Rods. Piston pins have a slot in the middle where a bolt goes through (by). A bolt then tightens (locks) the piston pin in place. The trouble is the slot and the con rod has to be in perfect ALIGNMENT. If you don’t have the slot in the pin lined up with the con rod you will always ruin the threads on the lock bolt. I know that you can force the alignment by forcing the con rod bolt down through the hole BUT IT RUINS THE TRHREADS EVERY TIME. I seldom pull out a wrist pin bolt that has any threads left, because guys force the bolt in place. Does anyone wonder why wrist pins sometimes scar the piston walls of blocks. NOTE: You can easily tell when you have the con rod and wrist pin lined up correctly, just look down the hole. If you can see ANY OF THE WRIST PIN, you must turn or move the wrist pin side ways. IMPORTANT you should be able to turn the WRIST PIN all the way down by FINGERS. If you can’t do that something is wrong, either bad threads or not aligned.

Ways To Ruin your Bands - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

There is a lot of ways to wear out (ruin) Bands. One is using your bands more than you need to.
Another is having your bands way too tight. Another is weak springs. Another that is never
mentioned or talked about is having a spring slip part way through the slot in the ears. This happens often when you have old tired bands.

If your band spring is slipping inside the ears you will loose most of the strength of the springs,
thus allowing the band material to ride on the drums. Of course this will wear the band material
out quickly. If when checking my bands I find even one washer has slipped inside the ears I immediately install a washer between the spring and the ears. This will spread the bands apart thus lessoning the wear on the material.

Note on some badly worn band ears you will have to install washer inside both ears.
Be sure to bevel the bottom side of the

Oil With Graphite Will Kill Your Magneto- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Everyone you talk to has a different idea on what oil to use. I even hear some guys using synthetic oil. I would like to caution guys that are new to model Ts that as I understand many synthetic oils have GRAPHITE in them. If you use one that has GRAPHITE it will kill your magneto big time. Not only will your car not run as well on the mag but WILL NO LONGER START ON MAG. I know that if you are on a long trip in your T and run low on oil and don’t have any extra with you, a stop in the local stop and rob to pick up oil is a must. Most stop and robs don’t carry a large selection of oil. If they don’t have your favorite oil and have to get something else, be sure to READ THE LABEL.

Brass Polish- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

It seems that everyone has their favorite brass polish, kind of like favorite oil. I find that all of
them eventually do a decent job, but I believe that some do a quicker, easier job and some are
more long lasting. Probably the most used polish is Brasso and the second most used is
Semichrome. I find that Brasso will take the varnish off the best of all the polishes, but it and
Semichrome do not last as long. I often use Wright’s Copper cream or Wright’s brass polish
as often as any because I can buy it at our local super market. One time a guy saw me polishing
my radiator and came up to me. We started talking and told me he worked at the truck detail
shop at Highway 119 and I-25, cleaning up trucks. He gave me a jar of Bluemagic Metal
Polish Cream that they used on the trucks. I figured that since they use Bluemagic on customers
semis it must be good and I used it a lot.

My all time favorite polish is FLITZ. It comes from Germany and is difficult to find in the stores. The place were I did get it went out of business so I must find a new source. I believe that FLITZ will last longer than any other polish that I use and is quick to polish tarnished metal.
I believe that you can get FLITZ at the Fastnall Stores.

Huson’s Hints is a recurring column by Dave Huson offering
technical advice for maintaining your Model T.

Tight axle nuts - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

The rear axle nut is the one that holds the wheels on the axles. Many key ways and threads on the axles are destroyed by loose wheel nuts. Loose wheel nuts can also result in loosing a wheel. What I do to insure that my axle nuts are tight is to install the nut, drive 5 miles to town and back and then retighten the nut. Note that after driving 10 miles ALL AXLE NUTS ARE LOOSE. Tightening them the second time avoids the loose nuts. I take many, many rear axles apart, and I find that over 50% have axles that have a ruined key way which can result in crystallization and breakage of the axle.

Note: originally 25 inch or longer wrenches were used to tighten the axle nuts. That was OK when the axles and threads were NEW, but I think you have to be very careful how much force you use on a hundred year old axle these days. I have seen good axles with good threads stripped.

Add a little more power to our Ts- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

We all like to add a little more power to our Ts, especially here in Colorado because of the hills. One way to add power is by milling the heads. I would not recommend milling much more than about 40 thousandths. I milled my 26 Montana 200 racer two hundred thousandths and ran it for 11 years. However, on the last year I was having a great race, passing other Ts. The course was run on Highway 2 starting from North Dakota due West to Missoula Montana 500 miles. On the first lap I was passing other racers and having a ball. Suddenly I began loosing power and another racer came up behind me and passed. Of course I could tell something was wrong. I started running slower and slower. We came to a pit stop. I gassed up and tried to check everything I could think of. When we were flagged out again to continue the race, Ts that I had passed earlier was now passing me. I finally pulled over in a wide spot and stopped. My wife had been following the race with our motor home and trailer. We loaded up the racer and continued on West.

When I got home I traced the problem to a blown head and head gasket. Note: A long time race driver had also milled his head two hundred thousands and also blown his head.

Huson’s Hints is a recurring column by Dave Huson offering technical advice for maintaining your Model T.

Install the Head WITHOUT the Head Gasket - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

When the motor is almost done and its time to install the head, always remember to put the head on WITHOUT a head gasket. You should then run ALL the head bolts down. If even one bolt does not go all the way down and touch the head you will need to grind that amount off. If I grind even one bolt off then I grind the others off as
well so I won’t get them mixed up at some later date. On my Montana 500 race car I stamped the heads of all the bolts so I would not get them mixed up at some later date. You can then take the bolts out, copper coat your head gasket and bolt it down. I use 55 lbs cold then again 55 lbs when Hot!

Huson’s Hints is a recurring column by Dave Huson offering
technical advice for maintaining your Model T.

Weak Valve Springs - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

One of the many things that can add to a poor running T is weak valve springs. Your springs should test at least 24 lbs. I find pulling many motors apart that about 2 out of 3 springs are throw aways. You can check your springs at home.

Cut a block 2 1/8” square. Put the block and one of the springs on a bathroom scale and then use a 2 by 2 about 3 foot long to press the spring to the same height as the block. Then all you have to do is read the bathroom scale. Of
course you have to put one end of the 2 x 2 under something so you can press the spring.

NOTE; I have a spring checker. If you can’t find one near you I would be happy to check your springs for you. I have about 100 springs so if some of yours are throw aways we can make them up.

Valves- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Most of the guys that I know are using CHEVY 350 VALVES. They have the same size head and the same degree in the seat. The valve stem is slightly larger so you will have to bore the stem guide. Boring the stem guide is good as many guides are worn and too loose. The material in the 350 valves is very good and will last you the rest of your life. I have put 43,000 miles on my center door with no burning of the valves. Another good thing about the 350 valves is they have better spring washers and retainers. The T valves have a weak little pin that wears and can fail at any time. There is a person on the forum recently that dropped a valve because of the pin. Last but not least the 350 valve stem is the correct size for a Model T motor. Try them you will like them.

Huson’s Hints is a recurring column by Dave Huson offering technical advice for maintaining your Model T.

More Power for Your T- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Everyone likes to add a little more power to their T. One of the ways to add power is valve timing. Most guys time the valves by using a clearance of anywhere from 0.010 to 0.014 inches. If you have a brand new cam then you can use the stock clearance on all 8 valves. But if the cam is used or reground then setting by PISTON TRAVEL is far better. The two settings are:

1. Exhaust Valve opens when the piston reaches 3 3/8’ from the top (5/16” from BDC).
2. Intake Valve opens 1/16” past TDC. The intake valve closes 9/16 past BDC. The distance
from the top of the block will be 3 1/8”.

Trust me I have done this with all my Ts that do not have a new cam. I can usually pull hills
without the low pedal. I have a gauge to measure piston travel that I will loan to anyone that wants to try it. I also find a tri-square is good to use and very easy.

Huson’s Hints is a recurring column by Dave Huson offering technical advice for maintaining your Model T.

Cracks in the side wall of tires - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Every once in a while I hear a guy complaining that tires being made now are no good because
they are getting cracks in the side wall. The cracks are not caused because of poor tires but
because of being underinflated. An underinflated tire will flex the tire wall on each revolution of
the wheel.

Note: I use the following pressures and never have cracks in the tire walls:

30 X 3 1/2: 65lbs rear and 55 lbs to 60 lbs front
30 X 3: 65 lbs rear and 55 lbs to 60 lbs front
45 X 21: 38 lbs all the way around.

I have an antique 1909 Firestone Manual that states 80 lbs should be used in their tires. I’ll bet
they had a lot of blow outs!

Huson’s Hints is a recurring column by Dave Huson offering
technical advice for maintaining your Model T.

Oil Pan Strenghteners - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

In about, I believe, 1926 Ford started adding OIL PAN STRENGHTENERS to all of their oil pans. I like the idea and install them in all of my Ts. I believe that where the block and hogs head comes together is a weak point in a T motor and certainly strengtheners would help. They are easy to install and only take slightly longer bolts. Give it some thought about placing them on all of you Ts.

Greasing the U-Joint and front bushing- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

Every once in a while I have guys tell me they have turned the Torque tube upside down so they can grease the U-Joint and front bushing without removing the floor boards. If you do this you must remember to do two things.

1. You must remove (grind) 0.50 from the front of the torque tube because the tube is not level
and must clear the oil pan.

2. You must drill a 3/4” hole in the ball cap so the hole will line up with the grease cup.

(Huson’s Hints is a recurring column by Dave Huson offering technical advice for maintaining your Model T.)

Loose Con Rod - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

I was sorry to hear the other day that one of my friends had a loose con rod in one of his Ts and had filed off 6 thousands off the cap to tighten it back up. Of course this did two things to ruin the cap.

1) The cap and con rod will never be a circle again.

2) If anyone tries to rebabbit the rod and cap the babbit will be too thin in the cap.

NOTE: Most good rebabbit places will NOT REBABBIT a cap that has been filed. There are plenty of
guys around with a bucket of con rod caps that would have fit my friends rod. I must have 50 of them. Many would have fit perfectly and still used shims. If you have a loose rod and have no shims to remove GET ON THE PHONE TO SOMNEONE, DON”T RUIN YOUR CAP.

Leaky Carburetor - Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

There are many things that cause a carburetor to leak. One of the most often is a leaking float filling full of gas. I do many, many carburetors and I always check the floats before sending them out or putting them on one of my cars. I have a large electric pot that roasts can be cooked in. I keep it full of water and when I want to check the floats for leaks I turn the heat on and heat the water until just before its boiling. I then use a needle nose pliers to dunk the float below the surface of the water. If there is a leak you will see hundreds and hundreds of air bubbles coming out of the float. It looks like when you fill up an inner tube with air and hold it under the water.

NOTE: I find about 50 percent of the floats have a leak in them. Be sure to test them before you put them all together!

Brake Drum- Huson’s Hints By Dave Huson

I constantly see in the Ford Forum that you should alternate the brake drum with the reverse drum going down a long hill. I don’t know what
Einstein came up with that idea but that is a sure way to crack the reverse drum. If those that do that would only stop and think how bad that is
jerking the reverse drum in an opposite direction they would not do it. I constantly have transmission brought to me to overhaul from all over.
One thing I find is that 50 PERCENT of the reverse drums are CRACKED.

If something goes wrong and you need to make an emergency stop use your EMERGEMCY BRAKE not, not, not the reverse drum!!!! Just remember the transmission drums are NOT STEEL THEY ARE CAST IRON, which is very soft and easy to CRACK.

Rain and front windshields By Rick J.

Yes, Rick was up from Texas visiting his folks. We were talking about various tours we went on and got around to talking about driving in the rain and how the front windshields leak like a sieve. Rick mentioned that leaking was not a problem for him. He uses a roll of the blue painters tape to seal the cracks on the windshield. When he gets back home he just peels the tape off. There is no gooey residue left behind with the painters tape. This is great news for the ladies who are usually holding the rag or towel and mopping up the running water.

Oil Leak Detection And Repair? By Paul W.
A few weeks ago after assembling the engine on my 24 Coupe, I discovered a major oil leak coming from the junction of the corner of the hogs head and the engine. Doc Murch and I knew that it was either coming from the hogs head or the pan gasket somewhere near the corner of the junction of the two. Based on where the leak appeared It could be either one. We tried to isolate the leak but none of our methods worked.

Doc mentioned our plight to Rick H. Rick suggested that we pressurize the pan through the oil fill inlet with a vacuum sweeper and check for the leak with soapy water and then apply a vacuum to the pan to draw in a sealant at the site of the leak. With a little black tape and a similar sized hose we were able to get a good seal with the hose and were able to get a good pressure and vacuum in the pan. After cleaning the leak area with acetone, the sealant was applied and did draw in under vacuum.

This method works very well for isolating and repairing small leaks. Try it you'll like it. Thanks Rick for a great tip.

Tech Tip by Bob M. (as told to him by Ron J.)Try some STP gas additive in the rear end axles. The car will run quieter and decrease wear. Do not over fill. Do not use the engine oil as it will cause the bands to work poorly.
Always use Neoprene axle seals in the outer bearing area of the rear axles.

Glyptol Tip by Paul W.

I recently read an email from Dave H. about Glyptol, a paint as old as the hills, for many applications in the automotive field. Dave uses it as a field coil sealer. It was primarily
designed as an interior engine sealer. That's what I use it for. It seals porous blocks that oil won't accumulate on the interior, and covers the oil pan so that oil will circulate more freely. It is applied with a regular paint brush, or can be purchased as a spray.

It is not cheap at $50.00 quart for the paint or the 12.75 oz. spray can. I have only seen it
advertised in the Eastwood catalog. The part number for the paint is 46001ZP and 46000Z for the spray. Their phone number is 1-800-345-1178. Try it, you will love it.

Here are a few websites that have Tech tips and tutorials.

Montana Cross Country T Association

Model T Club of Northern Colorado

Tickin' T's Of Central Ohio
Ford T Tips link on bottom of page

Model T Ford Club of Tulsa

Northwest Vintage Speedsters

South Carolina Model T Ford Club

Cen-Tex Tin Lizzies
Click on the Links page

Dallas-Fort Worth
Click on "the Drip Pan"

Texas Touring Ts
Click on the "Keep it running" link

Inland Empire Chapter

Three Rivers Model T Ford Club
Click on "Interesting links and then
"Click on "The Model T from the World Wide Web"

Model T Ford Club of New Zealand

The MTFCI (Model T Ford Club Internaional) website

Model T Ford Club of America